NYFW S/S '10: NARS (&Redken) @ Marc Jacobs

NARS @ Marc Jacobs
François Nars created a theatrical makeup at Marc Jacob's show. Guido Palau did the hair.

The look of the Marc Jacobs collection was inspired by the contemporary dancer, Martha Graham: Old-fashioned and theatrical but graceful and precise. At the same time, however, there was a darker side that was shone through: a quality of gothic romance. Ballerinas with a sense of mystery- as if part of them, along with some of their makeup, had been left behind on stage.

It was all about left-over stage makeup. The models weren’t meant to have perfect makeup- rather, they were meant to encompass a “just came off-stage” effect. “Dancers in theater and opera always have white faces, pointed lips and an eye that is drawn outward, not upward-it’s very theatrical, very ballet,” said François Nars. He stressed the importance of the eye for this look, noting that “the shape of the eyeliner is important- it should open the eyes, especially underneath. The slashes of white is something they used to do in the 70s- it brings a 3-dimensional feeling to the makeup.”

“It’s definitely not as crazy as last season,” Guido Palau joked. “But it’s still extreme, just in a different manner.” As Jacobs meandered backstage to check over the handiwork of his beauty team, he had one thing to say: “I want to make sure it stays theatrical.” And so Nars and Palau obliged, fashioning their own interpretations of a gothic romantic tribute to the stage. “It’s a little bit ballet,” Nars explained. “We’re trying to create performers, characters,” which meant pale skin, a strong brow, and a dark lip. Sighting an abundance of pastel colors in the collection, Nars kept the makeup graphic, rather than soft and predictably sheer.

· Blend NARS Siberia Sheer Matte foundation onto the face
· Set with NARS Snow Loose Powder for a white, pirouette-clown look
· Subtly contour and highlight, if necessary, with NARS Hungry Heart Blush Duo

· Dust the white shimmer from the left side of NARS Pandora Duo Eyeshadow on the eyelid
· Use NARS D.Gorgeous Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) in the crease
· Using the NARS Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches on the top and bottom lids, follow the shape of the eye, elongating it just past the outer corners but keeping the line straight and out, never moving upwards.
· Use NARS Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil to enhance the eye
· After applying two sets of false eyelashes, apply one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara followed by one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara

· Apply NARS Pop Life Velvet Matte Lip Pencil (NEW for Holiday 2009) to upper and lower lips, adding an extra layer on the top lip. Dab your finger along the lower lip to lightly fade the color so that the top lip is darker.

In any case, it worked with Palau’s top knots, which were intended to be a little dark, almost macabre. “They’ve got a Marc Jacobs edge,” he said of the high and tight chignons he created by slathering models’ hair with Redken Glass 01, twisting a high ponytail and pinning it onto itself for form and added height.

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