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When Krakoff and Page discussed the makeup for the runway show, the focus was simple. "Really, we just wanted the girls to look cool," said Dick Page.
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Rather than kooky stuff-that looks amazing but doesn't always translate to real life-seen on some runways, Page says these colors and textures "won't show up as a 'makeup look'." Instead, it's all about a halo of shimmery pewter cream shadow (a combo of dark olive-bronze and black prototypes that will launch in Fall 2011) smudged onto the eyelids, gradating from dark to light from lashes to brows. He finished with a slightly matte "soft mauve-y brown" lip -Perfect Rouge Glowing Matte Lipstick in Wink- and a dusting of Translucent Loose Powder to tone down shine.
Much like the designer of the line, the L.A.M.B. models got an edgy look for the runway show, held Thursday. “Gwen’s inspiration was multiethnic — her collection this season includes Scottish, African and Japanese prints — and we wanted to express that in the hair,” said Danilo, who coiffed the models at the show. Charlotte Willer, doing the makeup for Maybelline, went for a “glam, tribal, punk” look.
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HAIR
First, Danilo added hair extensions to any short-haired girls, then applied L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Density Spray to the hair. Next, he blew the hair dry for added texture and separated it into three sections, braiding each one. Each model got a slightly different braid placement — “We’re doing many different tribes, not just one,” said Danilo — and each braid was looped through itself, making the look slightly messy and “cool with a hint of androgynous,” said Danilo. Hair was finished with L’Oréal Texture Expert Infinium Spray for strong hold.
MAKEUP
Use Eye Shadow Quad in Give Me Gold #5 to highlight the browbones, inner corners and the tops of the cheekbones. Run the copper shade from the inside of the orb through the crease in a half circle, blending well to smoke it out into a cat's eye shape. Add the yellow shade to the full length of the lid and lacquer a strong black line beneath the lower lashes, winging it out into the cat's eye. Build up several coats of The Falsies Mascara, and contour cheekbone hollows with a deep bronze face powder. Finish with Deep Red Lipstick #645, or for the pink-glossed look, Tempting Toffee Lipgloss #55.
Beauty was light and ethereal, complimenting the neutral hues of the gauzy collection. Lisa Butler, key makeup artist for Temptu Pro, took inspiration from the 1975 Australian flick “Picnic at Hanging Rock.” The film featured “romantic” makeup, which interpreted the Twenties through a Seventies lens. Hair, styled by Neil Moodie for Bumble and Bumble, was equally charming — a loose ballerina bun, with airy wisps surrounding the face.
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Butler used Temptu Retouch Foundation on skin to create a soft complexion, adding Temptu Retouch Highlighter in Pink Pearl for a glowing effect. On cheeks, Butler used Temptu Air Pod Blush in Soft Peach, finishing off with a liberal application of Pink Pearl Highlighter to the models’ entire bodies, to offset the gossamer clothing.
Moodie used Bumble Styling Creme and Thickening Spray to texturize strands before piling them into a tousled top bun, inspired in part by Marie Antoinette’s intricate updos. A thin black double headband was added to finish the whimsical style.
“The hair is cool, a bit like an uptown lady who gets windswept, puts on a beanie and squashes the hell out of it,” Eugene Souleiman said of the style he created for Isaac Mizrahi’s show on Thursday. “It’s raw texture, cobwebby and dry.”
GET THE LOOKMakeup artist Dick Page applied what he called a “sick coral” hue on the lips. He began with a new Shiseido lipstick shade and blended into it white and pink theatrical pigments to arrive at the final lip color. “It makes the lip stand away from the face,” he said of the pout, which was blurred because Page’s team smudged the lips with fingertips after brushing on the color.
“There’s mascara, a groomed brow and a neutral face — more powdery than ordinary,” Page explained. “The details are the brow, lash and lip.
Souleiman, who was working on behalf of Wella Professionals, applied the brand’s Ocean Spritz spray as he blew out the hair. He described the overall look as a “complicated” chignon. An elegant, airy bun was the main element of the style, and it was formed by pulling the hair up into a ponytail, looping and pulling it through and out of the loop. Delicate ends of the messy ponytail hung over the top of the bun.
When Krakoff and Page discussed the makeup for the runway show, the focus was simple. "Really, we just wanted the girls to look cool," said Dick Page.
