NYFW S/S '10: NARS @ 3.1. Phillip Lim

NARS @ 3.1. Phillip Lim
Known for combining the dressy with the casual, 3.1 phillip lim's beauty look for spring 2010 personified his trademark approachable sense of style. "The makeup is sculptured yet natural. I lightly defined the eyes, cheekbones and lips. It's grown up and works with the sophisticated clothing," said Butler. The elegant chignon bun was inspired by Lee Miller, a surrealist photographer who was known for her 1920s flapper-chic style. "The twisted chignon is clean and fresh, yet artistic and pretty. I clipped in red cloth barrettes as a finishing touch that Phillip custom-made for this collection," said Gilbert. Black nails with a gold sheen added a sense of chic modernity to the look. "The gold overlay coat reflects light and catches your eye. It adds interest to the nails without trying too hard," said Valinoti.


The theme behind the collection was collage, with inspiration springing from the late works of Picasso and the Cubism period. The pieces look different from every angle leaving a sense of mystery to them, while remaining timeless. The same idea is applied to the makeup. An abundance of different textures- matte, sheer, shimmer and shine- were portrayed differently as the model moved around. The clothes, like the makeup, were meant to stimulate the senses, be emotional, and also to sympathize with current times.

The look is clean and textural, giving a sense that makeup is there but not detectable from the plain eye. “The idea is not to be harsh. The look is part sheer with shades of green, brown and lilac fading into each other” said lead artist Lisa Butler. The key points include highlights of iridescence and gold to the cheekbones, light liner (almost invisible) and peach lips. “There is some shimmer so when the face moves around, the light really captures it. But there are no lines- no eye lines, no lip lines.”

-Mix a small amount of NARS Concealer with NARS Hydrating Moisture Cream to apply just around the nose forehead and cheeks
-Blend NARS Luxor Multiple (NEW for Holiday 2009) with a foundation brush to the cheekbone moving down diagonally toward the lips and adding a little bit onto the lips for subtle highlights.

-Apply the golden moss side of NARS Camargue Duo Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) all over the eye filling in the crease with the sienna side
-Depending on skin tone, apply NARS Mousson Cream Eyesahdow (NEW for Holiday 2009) to adjust the color on the lid.
-Using a NARS Smudge Brush apply D.Gorgeous Eyeshadow (NEW for Spring 2010) to the lower lash line adding intensity as need be (“It’s not a heavy liner, but it shows some color,” explained Lisa Butler).
-Apply one coat of NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara to the top lashes

-Add a swipe of NARS Cruising Lipstick (NEW for Spring 2010) and some NARS Luxor Multiple (NEW for Holiday 2009) to a NARS Retractable Lip Brush and dab lightly onto the lips starting in the middle and working your way out

-Apply NARS Orgasm Illuminator (NEW for Spring 2010) to the face, concentrating on the cheekbones .
-Reapply both shades from NARS Camargue Duo Eyeshadow to the brow bones .

Gilbert first parted hair at the side and swept it down and back and pinned into the first twist of a chignon. She then braided a couple small sections of the hair and pinned it down to act as a cushion for the rest of the chignon to come. All of the remaining hair was twisted "like a snail" and wrapped over the base. Spritzes of L'Oreal Professionnel's Infinium Hair Spray kept everything neatly in place. Two red texturized barrettes were the final finishing touch "to secure the front part and back chignon like a little girl would, so it's this mix of youth with sophistication," said Gilbert.

GET THE LOOK (nails)
All products by CND. Valinotti first applied Oil Slick, a black shade that flashes blue and green in different lights. An effect layer of Gold Sparkle followed down one half of the nail. "It looks deconstructed, which is one of Phillip's signatures – so we created that vibe in the nails," said Valinotti.

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