FW SS11: Chanel Beaute @ Chanel

“Karl Lagerfeld showed me a sketch he had drawn of a girl with smoky eyes, so it was clear that we would put the focus on the eyes for this show. The inspiration for the color came from the black-white-green French garden that was recreated in the Grand Palais, from the glow that we can find in black, grey and white pearls, and the enamel that Karl integrated into the costume jewelry. I created deep, dark smoky eyes on a luminous fresh face with tinted, dewy lips. Nails were graphic and strong, and a thin black line was drawn in the hair.” – Peter Philips, Global Creative Director of CHANEL Makeup
The Complexion
Skin prepared with HYDRAMAX + ACTIVE Nourishing Cream for Dry Skin
Pro Lumiere Professional Finish Makeup SPF 15
Poudre Universelle Libra Natural Finish Loose Powder
Eclat Lumiere Highlighter Face Pen
Correcteur Perfection Long Lasting Concealer

The Eyes
Les 4 Ombres Quadra Eye Shadow in Regard Perle (Spring 2011, available January 2011)
Le Crayon Khol Intense Eye Pencil in Noir
Le Crayon Yeux Precision Eye Definer in Noir
Le Crayon Sourcils (August 2011)
Le Sourcil de Chanel Perfect Brows
Mascara Inimitable Waterproof in Noir

The Cheeks
Joues Contraste Powder Blush in Espiegle (Spring 2011, available January 2011)

The Lips
Rouge Coco Shine in Boy (April 2011)

The Nails
Le Vernis Nail Colour in Black Pearl on hands (Spring 2011, available January 2011)
Le Vernis Nail Colour in Pearl Drop on the feet (Spring 2011, available January 2011)

FW SS11: Covergirl @ Stella McCartney

Makeup artist Pat McGrath described the beauty look she conceived for Stella McCartney’s fashion show as “fresh” and “natural.”

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She enhanced models’ eyebrows, gave their faces a bit of peach-color blush and lashes some brown mascara. Product-wise, McGrath used NatureLux foundation, LashBlast mascara and Lipslick lip balm by Cover Girl.

FW SS11: Chanel @ Fendi

Color blocking was the inspiration for Fendi’s faces this season as makeup artist Peter Phillips utilized eye-popping lip shades ranging from shocking pink to a chemical-looking orange. “It’s graphic, but not a fixed look. I also wanted it to appear optimistic and fun,” he said.

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Peter Philips painted models’ mouths with three different Day-Glo pigments—including a hot fuchsia, a retina-burning cerise, and a neon melon shade—to add an “optimistic and fun” element to the presentation. Also used:

Le Crayon Yeux in Brun
Inimitable Intense Mascara
Chanel Pro Lumiere Foundation
Joues Contraste Powder Blush

FW SS11: Covergirl & John Frieda @ Gucci

A modern seductress was makeup artist Pat McGrath’s take on the look’s dewy skin and glossy red orange-y lips.

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Glossy red mouth that McGrath painted onto pouts with a brush dipped into a mixture of not one, not two, but three different scarlet pigments for the “orangey-red” color was the main attention.

“It’s something different from the retro and vintage looks out there,” said McGrath, who credited the look’s contemporary feel to well-prepped light, luminous skin created using NatureLuxe silk foundation by Cover Girl. Taupe and bronze eye shadow offered a hint of the traditional vamp. The eye was glossy courtesy of a slick of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream on top. Finishing touches came in the form of CoverGirl’s LashBlast Fusion mascara and MAC Lacquer in Shirelle, a cherry red varnish applied to fingers and pedicured toes.

Luigi Mureno attached thin bronze leather hair bands — created for the show and which matched the collection’s handbags and shoes — to hold together even the shortest locks with a sculptural flourish. John Frieda’s Frizz Ease serum was used to mold the style’s sleek side part Mureno described as military.

FW SS11: Giorgio Armani Beauty @ Armani

“Giorgio Armani wanted a really intense look,” said Linda Cantello backstage. “This is obviously Armani so although we’re giving model’s a sandy, dirty look they need to be groomed and beautiful.”

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The look’s midnight blue shading was created using a new eye shadow called Contrast Velvet from Giorgio Armani. The navy shade was smudged liberally above and below eyes, whilst black lashes and dark brows added to its intensity and complemented the collection’s turban-style hats. “It’s a new way to create a smoky eye,” said Cantello.

A bare lip and matte face with swathes of ochre blush and Luminizing Giorgio Armani foundation complimented the look’s soulful eyes.

FW SS11: Revlon @ Oscar de la Renta

Working a “fab eye” into the royal coming-out party, makeup artist Gucci Westman put her own spin on this season’s bright shadow and liner trend with emerald lids inspired by the gown worn by Freja Beha Erichsen.

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Finger-blending the bright green shade from Revlon’s ColorStay 12 Hour Eyeshadow Quad in Silver Fox with its Matte Eyeshadow in Venetian Blue, Westman added an unexpected twist to demure de la Renta beauty. One thing did hark back to the designer’s classic, ladylike aesthetic, though; a de la Renta princess is tattoo-free, which meant that inked-up catwalkers, like Erichsen, were touched up with Ben Nye’s Total Conceal All Wheel before they hit the runway.

FW SS11: Lancome @ L'Wren Scott

The third show that Lancome did during New York Fashion Week was the L'Wren Scott show. Aaron De Mey, artistic director for makeup, worked with hair stylist Odile Gilbert on the beauty look for the show.

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Lancôme creative director of makeup Aaron De Mey debuted something special for the occasion: 12 different matte texture pigment pots in shades like deep amethyst, midnight blue, sea green, teal, saffron, and red, which he meticulously brushed onto models’ lids and dragged underneath their lower lash lines. Lancôme’s Color Design Eye Shadow in It List, a matte black, held the loose pigment in place, and De Mey sculpted the crease of the lids with a “beachy” taupe shadow for dimension. “The more layers you have in the eye makeup, the more richness you get,” he said, lining girls’ inner rims with Lancôme’s Le Grand Kohl Eyeliner in Black Ebony and hand-painting lashes with its Hypnôse Drama mascara.

De Mey’s specialized pigments weren’t just confined to the eyes; hairstylist Odile Gilbert also brushed coordinating colors onto models’ scalps, where she had created a three-quarters part—not down the center or to the side, but somewhere in between—for beautiful brushed-out waves. In De Mey’s estimation, 60 percent of the shadows used already exist in Lancôme’s color coffers, but the brand hinted that it will likely be rolling out a capsule collection of them in collaboration with Scott after her first beauty range for the French company debuts next month.

The lip is a mix of Color Design lipstick in Oh My and Juicy Tubes in Touched by Light. Aaron also used the new Teint Miracle foundation.

L'Wren wanted two different nail polishes for the show. As one of the colors, she used the sparkly red from her upcoming holiday collection for Lancome. For the second shade, she asked Lancome to create a brilliant shimmery orange - saffron inspired by the Serengeti sunset.

FW SS11: Shiseido @ Issey Miyake

“Her face is simple but strong,” said Okubo, pointing to a model backstage at Issey Miyake.

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Makeup artist Noriko Okubo traced a black — or on occasion white — line under eyebrows to accentuate the otherwise natural beauty look. Okubo, who was representing Shiseido, used the brand’s Dual Balancing Foundation and its eyeliner pen.

FW SS11: Chanel @ Jil Sander

Peter Philips added a bright magenta lip to Raf Simons’ sea of floor-length peplum skirts paired with perfectly cut T-shirts.

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The pout in question added an element of “street” to very clean skin, which Philips created using Chanel Pro-Lumière Finish Makeup SPF 15 and a simple line of its Le Crayon Khôl in Clair on the inner rim of the lower lash line to open up the eyes. The lip color itself was a mix of fuchsia and white pigments made by Philips himself.

FW SS11: Covergirl @ Dior

“She’s a Technicolor Betty Page,” said makeup artist Pat McGrath, referring to a model backstage at Christian Dior. “She is very modern, with perfect skin. It’s all about bold colors and that beautiful Betty Page eyebrow and a bright bold lip - almost like a Pop Art screen print.”

GET THE LOOK
Electric colors from Cover Girl’s Eye Enhancers, such as Turquoise Tempest and Lime Alive, were applied to models’ eyelids, while their eyelashes were awash with the brand’s LashBlast Fusion Mascara. Meanwhile, number 752 Rouge Dior lipstick was used on mouths.